{
  "id": "4k-dual-dash-cam-gps-64gb",
  "sku": "4k-dual-dash-cam-gps-64gb",
  "title": "4K Dual Dash Cam with GPS and 64GB Card",
  "slug": "4k-dual-dash-cam-gps-64gb",
  "price": 179.99,
  "currency": "USD",
  "availability": "in_stock",
  "category": "dash-cams",
  "category_label": "Dash Cams & Car Cameras",
  "tags": [],
  "colors": [],
  "materials": [],
  "dimensions": null,
  "weight": null,
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  "description_short": "Dual channel 4K 30fps front and 2.5K 25fps rear recording, a 3.59 inch IPS screen, built-in GPS, Wi-Fi app control, loop recording, G-sensor lock and 24 hour parking monitor, with a 64GB microSD card in the box.",
  "description": "The thing nobody plans for\n\nAlmost nobody buys a dash cam on a good day. People buy one the week after something happened. A car drifts into your lane and the driver insists you were the one who moved. Somebody reverses into your bumper in a parking lot and leaves. You get rear-ended at a light, and the other driver's story changes between the roadside and the claim form.\n\nIn all of those situations the facts are simple and the evidence is nothing. That is the gap a dash cam fills. It records continuously while you drive, and when something goes wrong you play back the clip instead of arguing about who remembers what.\n\nThe reason to look at a front and rear dash cam rather than a single forward camera is that a lot of incidents happen behind you. A forward-only camera is pointed in the wrong direction for the most common type of collision in traffic. Dual channel fixes that.\n\nWhat dual channel 4K actually means\n\nThis camera records two streams at once. The front channel runs at 4K, 30 frames per second. The rear channel runs at 2.5K, 25 frames per second. Both write to the same microSD card.\n\nResolution matters less for seeing that a crash happened and more for reading detail when you pause. A plate at a distance, a street sign, the state of a traffic light. At 4K you have more pixels to work with when you freeze a frame and zoom in. At 1080p that same frame often turns to mush at the exact moment you need it.\n\nThe front lens has a 160 degree field of view. Wide angles keep the lanes on either side inside the frame. That matters when the other car never entered your lane properly but still made contact. The rear camera's 155 degree view does the same job behind you.\n\nOne thing worth understanding about wide lenses is that very wide views spread the same pixels across more scene. This is why pairing a wide angle with 4K is sensible. The resolution offsets the spread.\n\nWhy GPS changes the conversation\n\nVideo shows what happened. It does not show how fast you were going or exactly where you were. Those are usually the two points under dispute.\n\nBuilt-in GPS logs speed, route and real-time coordinates along with the footage. When you review a clip, the location data travels with it. Instead of saying you were doing a reasonable speed, the file says what the speed was. That is a different kind of conversation.\n\nRoute playback also helps for less dramatic reasons. If you drive for work, log mileage, or simply want to retrace where you went on a long day, the GPS track gives you a timeline. People hunting for the best dash cam with gps tracking are often after this as much as the crash evidence.\n\nLiving with it day to day\n\nA camera you have to manage is a camera you eventually unplug. This one is built to run itself.\n\nLoop recording means the card never fills up and stops. When the card gets near capacity, the oldest unprotected clips are written over. You do nothing.\n\nThe G-sensor is the exception to the loop. It is a 3-axis sensor that detects a serious collision. When it triggers, the current file is locked. The loop skips it. That clip stays until you deliberately remove it, which is exactly the behavior you want from a file you might need weeks later.\n\nThe 24 hour parking monitor covers the car when you are not in it. Parking lot damage is one of the most frustrating things that happens to a vehicle, because there is usually no witness and no note. A camera that keeps watching is the only practical answer. Note that parking modes generally need power that stays live with the ignition off, which usually means a hardwire kit rather than the 12 V socket.\n\nThe screen and the app\n\nThere is a 3.59 inch IPS screen on the unit. That is a useful size. It is big enough to line up both cameras properly during install, which is the step people rush and regret. It also lets you play back a clip right there in the car if you need to show somebody something.\n\nFor anything beyond a quick look, the app is the better tool. The camera has Wi-Fi, and the app connects your phone to it directly. You browse the recordings, pick what you want and download it to your phone. No card reader, no laptop, no sitting in the driveway with a cable.\n\nThis matters more than it sounds. The moment you need footage is usually the moment you are standing on the side of a road with your phone in your hand. Being able to pull the clip then and there, and send it, is the whole point.\n\nNight driving\n\nMost incidents that require footage happen in poor light. Dawn, dusk, rain, night streets with uneven lighting.\n\nThe hardware factor that matters most here is aperture. This camera's front lens has a maximum aperture of f/1.5, which is a wide opening. A wider aperture lets more light reach the sensor, which means less noise and a cleaner image in the dark. If you are comparing models and want the best night vision dash cam you can get for the money, the aperture number is the first spec to check.\n\nTwo practical things also affect night footage. Keep the lens clean, and keep the inside of your windshield clean. A haze of film on the glass scatters every headlight into a starburst and will ruin otherwise good footage.\n\nInstalling it without a mess\n\nEverything you need is in the box. There is an 11.5ft Type-C car charger, a trim tool, cable-hiding clips, adhesive pads and electrostatic films.\n\nThe electrostatic film is worth using. It goes on the glass first, and the mount sticks to the film instead of the glass. If you want to move the camera later, or take it out when you sell the car, you peel the film off cleanly.\n\nFor the cable, run it up into the headliner, along the edge, then down the A-pillar and into the footwell toward the power outlet. The trim tool is for tucking the cable behind the trim so none of it dangles. Work slowly and check behind the pillar trim for airbag components before you push anything in there.\n\nThe rear camera uses the included extending cable. The usual route is along the headliner to the rear window. Take your time with this part. A neat run takes about twenty extra minutes and makes the whole thing look factory-fitted.\n\nCards and storage\n\nA 64GB microSD card is included, so you can record on day one. The camera accepts cards up to 256GB if you want a longer loop before footage gets overwritten.\n\nThink about how much driving you do. Two channels at 4K and 2.5K eat storage quickly. A 64GB card is enough to get started. If you drive all day, or you want several days of history before anything is overwritten, a larger card is a sensible upgrade.\n\nFormat the card in the camera every few weeks. Dash cams write to a card constantly, and that constant writing is hard on the file system. A regular format keeps it healthy. If you start seeing failed recordings, replace the card rather than troubleshooting it.\n\nA note on audio\n\nThe camera lists voice recording as a feature, and audio can typically be turned on or off in the menu. Audio can be useful because it captures what was said at the scene.\n\nRecording audio and recording other people is covered by federal and state law, and the rules vary. If you carry passengers, or you drive across state lines, look up what applies to you and decide accordingly.\n\nThe short version\n\nIf you want a camera that covers both directions, records in enough detail to be useful when you pause the frame, and ties that footage to a speed and a location, this is that kind of setup. The front channel is 4K at 30fps, the rear is 2.5K at 25fps, GPS is built in, and the app means you can get a clip onto your phone without pulling the card.\n\nThe parts that make it easy to live with are the unglamorous ones. Loop recording so the card never fills. A G-sensor that saves the file you need. A 64GB card already in the box. A complete install kit so the first fit does not turn into a trip to the parts store.\n\nFit it once, check the framing on the screen, and then mostly forget about it. That is the right relationship to have with a dash cam.",
  "llm_summary": "This is a dual channel dash cam that records the road ahead at 4K 30fps and the view behind at 2.5K 25fps. The front lens has a 160 degree field of view with an f/1.5 maximum aperture, and the rear camera has a 155 degree angle of view. It has built-in GPS for speed, route and coordinate logging, Wi-Fi with smartphone app control, and a 3.59 inch IPS LCD screen. Features include loop recording, a G-sensor accident lock, voice recording and a 24 hour parking monitor. It mounts to the windshield and suits cars, minivans and trucks. A 64GB microSD card is included and cards up to 256GB are supported. Files are saved in .TS format. Color is gray. Weight, dimensions and country of origin are not specified by the maker.",
  "returnable": true,
  "return_policy": "Voluntary 14-day change-of-mind returns in original condition, buyer pays return postage; state consumer protection law and implied warranties for faulty goods. Return postage on faulty goods is ours.",
  "shipping_profile": "standard",
  "warranty": null,
  "brand": "Camera Company",
  "gtin": null,
  "mpn": null,
  "condition": "new",
  "url": "https://mycamerastore.co/4k-dual-dash-cam-gps-64gb/",
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  "json_url": "https://mycamerastore.co/api/products/4k-dual-dash-cam-gps-64gb.json",
  "updated_at": "2026-10-12"
}
